21
Oct
07

We Have Traffic Lights!

Although the Arusha Times has taken to calling them “traffic control lights”, they are your common variety traffic lights. Arusha’s population is growing rapidly, but not nearly as rapidly as the number of cars that crawl and clatter around town. The roads are not enough, and the traffic situation is getting worse all the time. Then, along came the raffic control lights. Apparently someone has paid a HUGE amount, to whom I do not know, in order to have the privilege of putting street lights and traffic lights in some areas of town. This unknown (to me) party has paid in order to install the lights because they will then own the advertising rights for every street light and traffic light for ever and ever (again, a guess). The lights all have an advertising board on them, ergo there is money to be made.

The one intersection in town where the lights are up and running is a a spectacle to behold. At first hundreds of people, nowadays only tens, gather to watch the lights working (as in the bulbs going on and off properly) and to revel in the chaos that ensues. The city decreed that only three of the four roads leading into the intersection deserved a traffic light. The fourth is a busy dust track that winds and bumps down Mount Meru from a town called Sanawari, running parallel to our own dusty track that runs down from Ilboru. Because it is not paved, the municipality decided that it does not get a light. They actually explained that one important issue was that they could not paint the necessary lanes onto a dust road. So the dozens of Dala Dalas (minibuses), taxis and carts that come down from Sanawari are left to carve their own path into the busy computerized intersection. The result? Bedlam. Pure, African bedlam, the best kind.

I urge you to read the article in the Arusha Times about the new traffic control lights. Of course you want to read about it all from an accredited news agency rather than believing everything that I write, but the Arusha Times delivers writing that is unique and from another time. A couple of quotes:

“They are playing with people’s lives. Had it not been for Traffic policemen who have been intervening, all day long, this junction would have been a pool of human blood,” said a woman who identified herself by the name of Mama Elisha.

A pedestrian, Melita Mollel said: “I’m surprised by the technology that threatens lives. It instructs you to cross the road but as soon as you start moving you’re surrounded by cars, all scrambling to knock you down.”

Keep reading the New York Times, the Corriere, the Repubblica. You won’t find stuff like this anywhere.


2 Responses to “We Have Traffic Lights!”


  1. 1 Giorgio October 22, 2007 at 9:55 am

    Why don’t the local authorities ask the Italian government to send experts to teach them how to negotiate traffic”control” lights. The best experts come from Napoli, but the ones from Roma are ok too! I recall a similar situation, when around 1980 traffic lights were introduced in Kuwait City. During ones of my visits a local told me that in the beginning there was chaos and a blood bath because the Kuwaitis thought the lights were there only for foreigners (Palestinians, Indians, Pakistanis, Filipinos ect… ;) and not for them! You also have to consider that the Kuwaitis drove mile long American limos whilst the foreigners drove second hand Japanese cars!
    Ciao Giorgio

  2. 2 resa October 23, 2007 at 7:36 pm

    ma non ci posso credere!

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About Safi Kabisa

He lives under the big water tower, just at the fork in the Ilboru road in Arusha, Tanzania. He lives with his wife Samantha, and their baby girl Sofia. Whilst he has promised that this page will not become a shrine to his daughter, he realises the difficulty in keeping that from happening.
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Books and Movies (I'm in bed by 9:30).

Tepper

Confederates in the Attic- Tony Horwitz (1998)

Confederates in the Attic This book has been around my mother's house in Italy for a couple of years. The cover features a photograph, aged and sepia-toned, of the most fierce looking man you have ever seen, seated and posing for the camera. It turns out that the man is a modern day Civil War re-enactor. He is "hard core", meaning that he goes to incredible lengths to be as authentic to the experiences that true Civil War soldiers endured. He carries (and eats) rancid bacon with him, sleeps in the pouring rain, marches barefoot for miles in search of true authenticity...The book is ultimately about the connection that the South feels to the Confederacy today, a connection that seems to be getting stronger. I have never been south of Cincinatti. This was all new to me.

Cat's Cradle - Kurt Vonnegut, Jr. (1963)

Cat’s Cradle Matt's donation again. Kurt Vonnegut, Jr. died recently (a man in Arusha keeping you all up to date on cultural current events!), so I pulled this crumbling and yellowed paperback off my shelf. By chapter 2 (of 127!) the cover had fallen off. Soon I resorted to reading it like one peels a banana, discarding pages as I went. This is a book that left me wondering how beautiful it must be to have no filters, to write (or draw or whatever) with no concern about how ridiculous your creation might seem. So I won't write about the story, because it sounds ridiculous. In this book Vonnegut makes ridiculous images, events and characters into something beautiful. Rather Bokononist, perhaps.

The Conversation (1973) - starring Gene Hackman

Another of Matt's blind selections (blind to us). Matt is feeding us these great movies that we would NEVER have watched otherwise, and is giving us great cocktail party conversation. No more chatting inanely about the stunning flat note hit by the guy on Idol last night. Now I wax on for hours over a Tusker about about the terribly sad, desperate and lonesome men that are featured in Matt's films. Well, that is what I plan to do when I finally get to a cocktail party in my life. In this film Gene Hackman plays the above mentioned variety of man, a private detective/wiretapper by trade, who captures a conversation on tape that begins to affect him more and more as he listens to it, until it tips him over the edge. The usual Marello-sponsored descent into madness.


The Pawnbroker - Directed by Sydney Lumet, starring Rod Steiger

The Pawnbroker This came out of my collection without my knowing what the film was about at all. You see, I took Matt's 100 best films of all time and brought them all with me, not knowing what most of them are. It might have been a slapstick comedy with Jerry Lewis as the bungling pawnbroker. It isn't. This is an incredibly sad, powerful film of a Jewish pawnbroker in East Harlem slowly unraveling as his memories of losing his family in the holocaust begin to take over his mind. Rod Steiger is amazing, the music is beautiful (Quincy Jones), and the black and white photography of New York is great.


The Dragon Scroll - I.J Parker

0143035320_m.png Before leaving New York I bought a couple mystery novels. I have never really read mystery, so this intrigued me. The book features Sugawara Akitada, a young Japanese nobleman who has fallen on hard times. He spends the book trudging through 11th century Japan's muddy streets, defending honor (his own as well as other people's) and trying to solve a crime.


The Shape of Water - Andrea Camilleri

images1.jpg This is the other crime novel that I bought. Set in Sicily, it is the account of Ispettore Montalbano's efforts to understand and go after the local malefattori. The police and the criminals all work, of course, Sicilian style. My highlight of the book is that each time the Inspector comes home, he describes the meal that his maid has prepared for him. Managgia la miseria, they don't cook in Arusha like they do in Sicily.


Childhood's End - Arthur C. Clarke

images.jpg Bradley gave me this, a fine old hardcover version, that I shipped across at book rate. I have never read sci-fi, but this was beautiful and sad. It is a great novel, set in a dark, Jetsonsy world.


A People's History of the United States - Howard Zinn

006092643001thumbzzzjpg.gif This came in my bags. I find that when I leave the United States I immediately suffer a strange nostalgia. Not for reality TV, nor for the re4st of the bullshit. Maybe for what might have been? I guess you have to get out of all of the crap to be able to see the beauty. Anyway, I read this compulsively.


Network (film, 1976) Faye Dunaway,William Holden,Robert Duvall

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I think that this movie had a similar effect on me as Zinn's book. I now look at the United States from afar, and so the shocking relevance of Network's message (who does the media serve?) to today's western societies is even more glaring. Beyond that though, the movie is almost perfect in many ways, with really great writing and acting.